New build decisions · Calgary and Alberta

What to spec, what to rough in, and what to skip

Design centre appointments are organised around what things look like. The decisions that actually matter are organised around when they close. Anything inside a wall, under a slab or in the foundation has a deadline; anything you can see and touch usually does not. This guide sorts new build features and technology that way.

Sorted by deadline Design centre guide

Which new build upgrades should I actually pay for?

Reviewed · 2026-09-03

Pay for what you cannot change later. Foundation height, garage depth, a side entrance for a future suite, structural beams, basement slab plumbing, wall insulation and anything that runs inside a wall are permanent decisions. Rough in an electric vehicle charger circuit, network cabling, air conditioning, a water softener loop and a basement bathroom drain even if you will not use them for years. Take the builder standard on flooring, paint, light fixtures and cabinet doors, because those are the cheapest things to change and the most heavily marked up at the design centre.

Timing

Sorted by when the decision closes

The order below is the only one that matters. Everything in the first two groups gets harder or impossible once the trades move on. Everything in the last group can wait until you have lived in the house.

Before you sign3 decisions

  • Layout you cannot change laterDo it nowSide entrance and suite-ready basementA separate exterior entrance to the basement, plus the framing, plumbing stub, egress windows and ceiling height a legal secondary suite needs later.
  • Layout you cannot change laterDo it nowNine-foot basement ceilingsPouring the foundation walls taller so the finished basement has full-height ceilings rather than the standard eight feet.
  • Layout you cannot change laterDo it nowDeeper or wider garageExtending the garage slab and structure a few feet beyond the standard footprint.

At the design appointment8 decisions

  • Envelope and structureDepends on the houseTriple-pane windowsThree panes of glass with two insulating gaps, instead of the standard two panes.
  • Envelope and structureDo it nowBlower door test and air sealingA measured airtightness test on the finished house, with the sealing work done before drywall to hit a target.
  • Envelope and structureDepends on the houseImpact-resistant roofingA shingle with a higher impact rating, designed to survive hail better than a standard architectural shingle.
  • Heating, cooling and airDepends on the houseHeat pump instead of, or alongside, a furnaceAn electric heat pump that both heats and cools, usually paired with a gas furnace as backup for the coldest weeks.
  • Heating, cooling and airDo it nowRange hood vented to the outsideA hood that ducts cooking moisture and grease outdoors, rather than a recirculating unit that filters and returns it to the room.
  • Water and plumbingDepends on the houseTankless versus tank water heaterA tankless unit heats on demand and takes less space; a tank stores hot water and is simpler to service.
  • Finishes and fixturesDo it nowCabinetry layout and boxesThe configuration, height and construction of the kitchen cabinets, as distinct from the door style.
  • Finishes and fixturesDepends on the houseTiled shower instead of a moulded unitA tiled shower with a waterproof membrane, rather than a one-piece acrylic or fibreglass insert.

Before framing1 decisions

  • Layout you cannot change laterRough it inStructural beam for a future wall removalSpecifying a beam and post arrangement now so a wall can be removed later without engineering and temporary support.

Before drywall17 decisions

  • Layout you cannot change laterRough it inRough-in for a future bathroomDrain, vent and supply lines stubbed into the basement slab where a future bathroom will go.
  • Layout you cannot change laterDo it nowBulkhead and ceiling planningAsking where ducts, beams and plumbing will force dropped ceilings in the basement, and whether runs can be consolidated.
  • Envelope and structureDo it nowUpgraded wall and attic insulationInsulation above the code minimum, usually as exterior rigid insulation on the walls or additional depth in the attic.
  • Envelope and structureRough it inRadon rough-in taken to an active systemAlberta requires a capped pipe from beneath the slab. Taking it further means running the pipe up through the house to a point where a fan can be added.
  • Heating, cooling and airRough it inAir conditioning, or a rough-in for itEither a full system now, or the line set, electrical and exterior pad placed so a unit can be added.
  • Heating, cooling and airDo it nowHRV commissioning and balancingHaving the heat recovery ventilator balanced and documented rather than simply installed and switched on.
  • Heating, cooling and airRough it inIn-floor heating rough-inTubing or electric mat in the basement slab or bathroom floors, or at minimum the manifold location and wiring.
  • Electrical and technologyRough it inEV charger circuit and panel capacityA dedicated high-amperage circuit to the garage wall, or at minimum a conduit and reserved panel space.
  • Electrical and technologyRough it inHardwired network cablingNetwork cable run from a central point to the rooms that matter, especially ceiling locations for wireless access points.
  • Electrical and technologyRough it inSolar rough-inA conduit from the roof space to the electrical panel, plus confirmation the roof structure can carry panels.
  • Electrical and technologyDo it nowExtra receptacles and switch locationsAdditional outlets where furniture will actually sit, switches where you will actually reach for them, and exterior receptacles at the front, back and soffit.
  • Electrical and technologyDo it nowInterconnected alarms and a carbon monoxide alarm placement planHard-wired, interconnected smoke alarms on every level, with carbon monoxide coverage near sleeping areas and on the house side of an attached garage.
  • Water and plumbingRough it inWater softener loopA plumbing loop and a drain near the water entry so a softener can be installed without cutting pipe.
  • Water and plumbingRough it inAutomatic leak detection and shut-offA valve on the main water line that closes automatically when a sensor detects a leak or an abnormal flow.
  • Water and plumbingDo it nowSump pump with a battery backupA pump in the sump pit, on a dedicated circuit, with a battery backup that runs during a power failure.
  • Water and plumbingRough it inHot water recirculationA return line so hot water is available quickly at the furthest fixture instead of after a long run.
  • Water and plumbingDo it nowExterior hose bibs, front and backFrost-free taps at the front and rear of the house, correctly pitched to drain.

Any time after possession4 decisions

  • Heating, cooling and airSafe to add laterBetter filtration on the furnaceA deeper media filter cabinet that takes a higher-rated filter than the thin one supplied.
  • Electrical and technologySafe to add laterSmart home devicesSmart thermostats, locks, switches, cameras and speakers.
  • Finishes and fixturesSafe to add laterFlooringUpgraded hardwood, tile or luxury vinyl in place of the builder standard.
  • Finishes and fixturesSafe to add laterPainting and light fixturesUpgraded paint colours, feature walls and decorative light fixtures.

Category

Layout you cannot change later

  1. Side entrance and suite-ready basement

    Do it now

    A separate exterior entrance to the basement, plus the framing, plumbing stub, egress windows and ceiling height a legal secondary suite needs later.

    A side entrance changes the foundation, the grading and often the lot itself, so it cannot be added meaningfully later. Even if you never build the suite, a suite-ready basement is one of the few upgrades that reliably widens your buyer pool at resale.

    Decide by: Before you sign

  2. Nine-foot basement ceilings

    Do it now

    Pouring the foundation walls taller so the finished basement has full-height ceilings rather than the standard eight feet.

    This is decided when the foundation is formed and can never be changed. It affects how the basement feels, whether a suite meets height requirements, and how much room there is to route ducts without dropping bulkheads everywhere.

    Decide by: Before you sign

  3. Deeper or wider garage

    Do it now

    Extending the garage slab and structure a few feet beyond the standard footprint.

    Garage depth is fixed at the foundation. In a city where vehicles are parked inside all winter, the extra depth is the difference between storage and a workbench, and it is the most common regret buyers report on a first build.

    Decide by: Before you sign

  4. Structural beam for a future wall removal

    Rough it in

    Specifying a beam and post arrangement now so a wall can be removed later without engineering and temporary support.

    Adding a beam later means engineering, permits, temporary shoring and repairs to finishes on both floors. Specifying it during framing is a change to a drawing.

    Decide by: Before framing

  5. Rough-in for a future bathroom

    Rough it in

    Drain, vent and supply lines stubbed into the basement slab where a future bathroom will go.

    A drain in a basement slab has to be placed before the slab is poured. Adding one afterwards means cutting concrete, and it constrains where the bathroom can go for the life of the house.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  6. Bulkhead and ceiling planning

    Do it now

    Asking where ducts, beams and plumbing will force dropped ceilings in the basement, and whether runs can be consolidated.

    Bulkheads are decided by the order in which trades route their services. Once drywall is on, moving a duct to recover ceiling height is a demolition project. Ask at pre-drywall while it is still a conversation.

    Decide by: Before drywall

Category

Envelope and structure

  1. Triple-pane windows

    Depends on the house

    Three panes of glass with two insulating gaps, instead of the standard two panes.

    Replacing windows later is one of the most expensive retrofits there is, so this is effectively a permanent decision. The benefit is largest on north-facing and wind-exposed elevations and in rooms you will actually sit in. Ask whether the upgrade can be applied to selected elevations rather than the whole house.

    Decide by: At the design appointment

  2. Upgraded wall and attic insulation

    Do it now

    Insulation above the code minimum, usually as exterior rigid insulation on the walls or additional depth in the attic.

    Attic depth can be topped up later and is genuinely optional. Wall insulation cannot: it is inside the assembly. If you are going to spend on the envelope, exterior wall insulation is the part that has to happen now.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  3. Blower door test and air sealing

    Do it now

    A measured airtightness test on the finished house, with the sealing work done before drywall to hit a target.

    Air leakage is the largest controllable heat loss in most homes and the hardest thing to fix afterwards, because the leaks are inside the walls. A tested result is also a document you can show a future buyer. Ask whether your builder tests as standard and what result they achieve.

    Decide by: At the design appointment

  4. Impact-resistant roofing

    Depends on the house

    A shingle with a higher impact rating, designed to survive hail better than a standard architectural shingle.

    Calgary sits in the most active hail corridor in Canada. A roof can be replaced later, so this is not a now-or-never decision, but doing it at build is far cheaper than doing it twice. Ask your insurance broker whether the rating changes your premium before you decide.

    Decide by: At the design appointment

  5. Radon rough-in taken to an active system

    Rough it in

    Alberta requires a capped pipe from beneath the slab. Taking it further means running the pipe up through the house to a point where a fan can be added.

    The rough-in is required, but where it terminates is not always convenient. Routing the pipe through an interior wall to the attic during framing means the eventual fan is quiet and out of sight. Doing it afterwards means running visible pipe up the outside of the house.

    Decide by: Before drywall

Category

Heating, cooling and air

  1. Air conditioning, or a rough-in for it

    Rough it in

    Either a full system now, or the line set, electrical and exterior pad placed so a unit can be added.

    Calgary summers used to make this optional and increasingly do not. The rough-in is inexpensive during construction because the line set runs through open walls. Retrofitting means fishing lines through finished walls or running them outside.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  2. Heat pump instead of, or alongside, a furnace

    Depends on the house

    An electric heat pump that both heats and cools, usually paired with a gas furnace as backup for the coldest weeks.

    A cold-climate heat pump handles most of a Calgary heating season and gives you cooling in the same equipment. The decision affects duct sizing and electrical capacity, so it belongs at design rather than later. Ask for the heat loss calculation and how the changeover to gas is configured.

    Decide by: At the design appointment

  3. HRV commissioning and balancing

    Do it now

    Having the heat recovery ventilator balanced and documented rather than simply installed and switched on.

    This is not an upgrade, it is completion of work you already paid for, and it is very commonly skipped. Ask for the balancing report by name before possession. An unbalanced ventilator pressurises or depressurises the house all winter.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  4. Better filtration on the furnace

    Safe to add later

    A deeper media filter cabinet that takes a higher-rated filter than the thin one supplied.

    The cabinet takes up space at the furnace, so it is easier during install, but it can be retrofitted by any HVAC contractor. Confirm the system was designed for the added resistance before you fit a very high-rated filter.

    Decide by: Any time after possession

  5. In-floor heating rough-in

    Rough it in

    Tubing or electric mat in the basement slab or bathroom floors, or at minimum the manifold location and wiring.

    In-slab tubing has to go in before the pour, full stop. Bathroom mats go under tile and can be done during any future renovation, so the slab is the decision with a deadline.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  6. Range hood vented to the outside

    Do it now

    A hood that ducts cooking moisture and grease outdoors, rather than a recirculating unit that filters and returns it to the room.

    The duct route through the wall or ceiling is a framing decision. Recirculating hoods leave the moisture in the house, which matters more in an airtight home. Confirm the duct actually terminates outside rather than in a cabinet or the attic.

    Decide by: At the design appointment

Category

Electrical and technology

  1. EV charger circuit and panel capacity

    Rough it in

    A dedicated high-amperage circuit to the garage wall, or at minimum a conduit and reserved panel space.

    Running the circuit through an open wall is straightforward. Retrofitting means surface conduit or opening finished drywall, and if the panel is full it can mean a service upgrade. Ask about spare panel capacity, not just whether a wire can be run.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  2. Hardwired network cabling

    Rough it in

    Network cable run from a central point to the rooms that matter, especially ceiling locations for wireless access points.

    Wireless coverage in a two-storey house with a finished basement is limited by walls and floors, and the fix is wired access points on each level. Cable in an open wall is trivial. Afterwards it means surface trunking or a long afternoon in the attic.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  3. Solar rough-in

    Rough it in

    A conduit from the roof space to the electrical panel, plus confirmation the roof structure can carry panels.

    The conduit is inexpensive during framing and awkward later. Even if solar is years away, the rough-in and a note on the roof structure keep the option open without committing to anything.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  4. Extra receptacles and switch locations

    Do it now

    Additional outlets where furniture will actually sit, switches where you will actually reach for them, and exterior receptacles at the front, back and soffit.

    The electrical walkthrough before drywall is your one chance to move a box. Walk the house with a floor plan, stand where the bed and the desk will go, and ask. Soffit receptacles for seasonal lighting are the single most requested addition after possession.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  5. Smart home devices

    Safe to add later

    Smart thermostats, locks, switches, cameras and speakers.

    Almost all of this is a consumer product you can buy and fit yourself, and the technology changes faster than a house does. Buy the wiring and the neutral conductors at the switch boxes now; buy the devices later, when the standards have moved on again.

    Decide by: Any time after possession

  6. Interconnected alarms and a carbon monoxide alarm placement plan

    Do it now

    Hard-wired, interconnected smoke alarms on every level, with carbon monoxide coverage near sleeping areas and on the house side of an attached garage.

    Interconnection is a wiring decision. It is generally required in new construction, and it is worth confirming rather than assuming, because a wireless retrofit is the fallback if it was missed.

    Decide by: Before drywall

Category

Water and plumbing

  1. Water softener loop

    Rough it in

    A plumbing loop and a drain near the water entry so a softener can be installed without cutting pipe.

    Calgary water is hard enough that most households eventually install a softener. The loop costs very little during rough-in and turns a plumbing job into a plug-in installation later.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  2. Automatic leak detection and shut-off

    Rough it in

    A valve on the main water line that closes automatically when a sensor detects a leak or an abnormal flow.

    The valve needs a straight run of pipe and a power outlet at the main. Providing both during rough-in makes later installation simple. Some insurers recognise these devices, so ask your broker.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  3. Sump pump with a battery backup

    Do it now

    A pump in the sump pit, on a dedicated circuit, with a battery backup that runs during a power failure.

    Many builders supply the pit empty and sell the pump as an upgrade. A summer storm that causes a power outage and heavy rain at the same time is exactly when the pump matters most, which is the argument for the backup.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  4. Hot water recirculation

    Rough it in

    A return line so hot water is available quickly at the furthest fixture instead of after a long run.

    The return line is pipe inside the walls. Retrofits use a pump at the far fixture and work less well. Worth it in a larger house where the ensuite is a long way from the tank.

    Decide by: Before drywall

  5. Tankless versus tank water heater

    Depends on the house

    A tankless unit heats on demand and takes less space; a tank stores hot water and is simpler to service.

    The venting, gas line sizing and location differ between the two, so switching later is a real job. Tankless suits households with high peak demand and a preference for space; tanks suit simplicity and lower service costs. Ask what the builder installs as standard and what the service history looks like.

    Decide by: At the design appointment

  6. Exterior hose bibs, front and back

    Do it now

    Frost-free taps at the front and rear of the house, correctly pitched to drain.

    Adding an exterior tap later means opening a wall and running a line. Ask for frost-free units at both ends of the house, and ask where the interior shut-offs are so you can drain them in the fall.

    Decide by: Before drywall

Category

Finishes and fixtures

  1. Flooring

    Safe to add later

    Upgraded hardwood, tile or luxury vinyl in place of the builder standard.

    Flooring is the most visible upgrade and the easiest to change later, which is why builder margins on it are usually high. Consider taking the standard and replacing it when you choose, unless the upgrade is genuinely close in price.

    Decide by: Any time after possession

  2. Cabinetry layout and boxes

    Do it now

    The configuration, height and construction of the kitchen cabinets, as distinct from the door style.

    Doors and hardware can be swapped later. The layout, the box construction, cabinets to the ceiling and the location of the appliances are tied to plumbing, electrical and framing, so they are effectively permanent.

    Decide by: At the design appointment

  3. Tiled shower instead of a moulded unit

    Depends on the house

    A tiled shower with a waterproof membrane, rather than a one-piece acrylic or fibreglass insert.

    The drain location and the framing differ, so converting later is a full bathroom renovation. Tiled showers look better and leak more often when the membrane is done badly, so ask what waterproofing system is used and who installs it.

    Decide by: At the design appointment

  4. Painting and light fixtures

    Safe to add later

    Upgraded paint colours, feature walls and decorative light fixtures.

    These are the cheapest things in the house to change and among the most expensive upgrades at the design centre. Take the standard, live in the house for a season, then spend on the rooms that turn out to matter.

    Decide by: Any time after possession

FAQ

Questions about new build upgrades

The ones that are difficult or impossible to change later. Foundation height, garage depth, a side entrance, structural beams, in-slab plumbing and heating, wall insulation and anything that runs inside a wall all belong in that group. Flooring, paint, light fixtures and cabinet doors are the opposite: highly visible, heavily marked up at the design centre and straightforward to change when you choose.

Source note

Sources
  • National Building Code, Alberta Edition, as adopted for the permit in force
  • Alberta energy code requirements for new housing
  • Health Canada radon guidance for homeowners
  • Builder design centre option lists and construction schedules, which vary by builder
Jurisdiction
Alberta, with Calgary-specific notes
Applies to
New residential construction purchased from a builder.
Last reviewed
2026-09-03
Limitations
General guidance, not a code interpretation and not advice on any specific home. No prices, option costs or payback periods are stated, because builder option pricing changes constantly and varies widely. Availability of any option depends on the builder, the model and the phase.
What you should verify
Which options your builder actually offers, the change cut-off dates for structural, electrical and plumbing decisions, and whether an option affects the permit drawings.

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